There’s just something in the air in Hualien that has me going back time and time again, and now that I have uncovered Ankou Canteen, located inside the Katsuo Museum, this regularity is only likely to increase. Ankou was established by a friendly grandpa right on the coast of Qi Xing Tan, and is known as one of those places that naturally slows you down to match the relaxed energy of the area. Forget about the Earthquake in Hualiuen of a few years ago, this is humble seafood and Hualien food at its finest.
The wide stretch of pebble beach, the sound of waves rolling in from the Pacific, and the open sky make it feel worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the north, the craziness of Taichung, and even the moderately slower Hualien. It’s the kind of area you wander around without a strict plan, letting the scenery dictate the pace of your day.
But after walking the coastline, sitting by the water, or watching trains pass in the distance, the question inevitably arises: Where do we eat?
Often, some of the more popular, built-up coastal areas attract restaurants that serve average food, but never much of note. This part of Hualien isn’t packed with restaurants, and honestly, that’s part of the appeal. Instead of rows of cafés and tourist-oriented eateries, you’ll find a handful of small, personal spots that feel deeply tied to the area. Ankou Canteen is one of those places. Located in a modest old building just steps from Qixingtan, it doesn’t announce itself loudly, it just waits for you to uncover its charm.
Run by a friendly grandfather and serving simple Japanese-style set meals, this is food that feels grounded, unpretentious, and quietly comforting. The menu is small, prepared fresh to order, and the focus is firmly on doing a few things well. It’s honest, humble, and delicious.
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More for families with children where you can learn all about the process of drying fresh Bonito fish, storing it, and then using it to flavour broths, fried dishes, and other delicious meals, the Katsuo Museum houses the wonderful Ankou Canteen.
You’ll likely find a similar menu to the one in the pictures above, however, note that it does change with the seasons. While some of the staples like chicken or pork may remain, expect the fish dishes to change to reflect the seasonality.
If you aren’t sure how to order or what to do when you arrive at Ankou Canteen, then this is the post for you. See below for How to Order in Taipei Restaurants like a definitive pro!
3 Fast Tips on How to Order in Taipei Restaurants like a definitive pro!
The Menu at Ankou Canteen
Written on the board outside Ankou Canteen, and with some of the updated specials written inside on the window display, expect to find a menu similar to this:
- Chicken with sesame oil and goji berries
- 好吃雞 - 枸杞麻油雞 Hào chī jī - gǒuqǐ máyóu jī
- Pork steak with sticky soy glaze
- 美味豬 - 醬燒梅花豬排 měiwèi zhū - jiàng shāo méihuā zhūpái
- Fresh salt-baked Mahi Mahi steak
- 新鮮魚 - 鹽烤鬼頭刀 xīn xiānyú - yán kǎo guǐtóu dāo
- Slow cooked beef stew
- 飄香牛 - 白玉燉牛肉 piāoxiāng niú - báiyù dùn niúròu
The character of the grandad is such that he even brought out the entire fish to show us before we ordered, marvelling at its beauty, and even saying that it was the biggest one he had cooked up in quite a long time. I'll admit, it looked impressive, and we were excited to get a taste of it.
Inside, it feels almost like a old-school public school. The chairs and tables are all wooden, and the overall atmosphere feels relaxed, yet clean.
Slow cooked beef stew
I really wanted the fish, but as we had already ordered one portion of that, it felt only right that we should try something else on the menu so that we could put it here for all you wonderful people.
The beef was delicate, packed full of rich braised flavours, but still tasted fresh and clean. The side dishes complimented the whole lunch, with everything fresh and jumping with natural flavours. Of particular note was the fresh tofu in sesame sauce topped with a little cherry tomato. The texture of that tofu immediately struck me as home-made, with a creamy, silky consistency, and punching with fragrant soy bean flavours.
Fresh salt-baked Mahi Mahi steak
The aromas coming off this Mahi Mahi steak were amazing. Cooked to perfection, melting as it touched your palate, and bursting with fresh fish flavours, it's one of the tastiest seafood dishes I may have ever had. The skill of the grillmaster grandad here at Ankou Canteen is nothing short of excellent, and is a perfect example of Hualien food at its finest - simple, fresh flavours, at a very reasonable price.
Served with pepper and a fresh wedge of lemon, it was the only dressing needed for this fresh fish. The texture popped with fresh, juicy flavours, but was also incredibly meaty for a fish.
Look at that perfect white flesh, though. I strongly encourage all of you to order the fish special at Ankou Canteen. As far as food in Hualien is concerned, there's a fair amount of choice, but I'd still choose to venture out of the city center to this beautiful Qi Xing Tan location inside Katsuo Museum Hualien to check out Ankou Canteen. It's well worth your time and effort.
The Bottom Line
Is it worth it? For fresh seafood, there's not much better out there that I have tasted. Especially as far as grilled Mahi Mahi is concerned.
What is the best dish? The grilled Mahi Mahi, without question.
Are there other places like this? Hualien has some great places to eat, but I'd say that this is unique in that it's on the coast, fresh seafood, and not only humble but very well-priced.